Written on 21 October 2013 right after the events you are about to read occurred. The names haven't been changed to protect the stupid and the guilty.
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I’ve had a pretty shit day.
Remember that movie from the late 1970s-early 1980s about an
American who tries to smuggle hash out of Turkey and gets caught, then locked
up, tortured, the bottoms of his feet beaten? It’s called Midnight Express and
I can still see the main character wearing his aviator sunglasses, sweating high-caliber
bullets, as he stands in the bathroom with enough hash strapped around him to
make half of Los Angeles high, and then the policeman walks into the bathroom.
The stress was just ramped up to Eleven.
That’s what happened to me today.
When the nice security men who’d served me tea and water and
made me wait for three hours turned me over the Airport Police, I felt second
cousin to the man in the movie. My Oh
Shit meter went to a hundred and for the first time I thought that I might
not be coming home.
But I get ahead of myself.
I haven’t even told you what happened.
Inside Dubai International |
Backup three and a half hours. I finally get my luggage,
then I head through customs. I’m waived from the Nothing to Declare lane to the I’ve
Got Something And You Have To Find It lane. A Dubai ninja (woman of unknown
age in head to toe clothing with even her eyes shielded) shouted AHA! When my bag went through.
Aha!? Seriously?
Then they had me take the bags over to a different area and
I began racking my brain. What could it have been? Was it the body armor? I was
just told by a friend that I wasn’t supposed to bring it through Dubai. Nice.
Now you tell me. It’s not even mine. This belongs to a special mission unit.
The one issued to me is sitting in a closet in Virginia somewhere. Shit. Shit. Shit. How was I going to
explain it to my buddy that I had his armor confiscated by the Dubai Airport Sheriff or whatever they call themselves.
----INTERMISSION---
I just want to point out that you are helping me de-stress.
I’m sitting here in a Dubai Starbucks drinking the hell out of an effing Coffee
Americano and wearing my toe shoes because they hug my feet so nicely and
frankly I need a hug right now. Talk of ninjas and things are my stress
bleeding. I mean no disrespect. I’m just stressed from almost being locked up
in a Dubai monkey cage for an indeterminate time for doing something stupid.
Now, back to me being stupid.
----END INTERMISSION----
So the Dubai equivalent of a Sumo Wrestler begins to pull
stuff right out of the bag I have the body armor in. Damn. This sucks. When he
found the body armor, he smiled. But then he did something weird. He didn’t
seem to be interested IN the body armor, but instead what was INSIDE the body
armor. He re-xrayed the body armor. And I swear to you, just like the Dubai
ninja, this Dubai Security Sheriff said, AHA!
What is it with these Dubainese and their love of the AHA!?
He pulls the body armor and begins going through the
pockets. Pockets, the only things I’ve ever had in the pockets were…
Bullets
Shells
Ammunition.
OH SHIT!
He somehow wedged a bratwurst-sized finger into a magazine
pouch and levered out a 5.56 mm round usually meant to fuel an HK 416 or an M4
for human destruction…NOT my passport through an airport.
I actually gasped.
I knew at once that I was in a world of shit. I was about to
become the target for everyone’s hatred of America, all reduced-216 pounds of
me with only my passport and tattoos of Elvis and Bruce Lee to keep me company.
The first thing they did was take my passport. They might
have taken my tattoos if they hadn’t been inscribed into my skin.
----INTERMISSION----
Funny thing about my tattoos. Everyone and I mean every Tom,
Dick and Abdul Said, recognized Bruce Lee. They must have grown up watching the
same old movies I did, because they all smile when they see it. But Elvis? (and
I’m wiping away a tear here) Elvis is an unknown entity in the faraway Lands of
Islam. Not a single resident of the Middle East has ever heard of him. In fact,
they all look at me strangely and ask why I have the portrait of a famous
Pakistani singer on my arm. I have no idea who it is. Part of me suspects it’s
a Pakistani Elvis impersonator. But enough of that. Back to me getting rolled
up.
----END OF SECOND INTERMISSION----
Then they said come
with me, where I met the only Airport Security Captain who was a
professional bodybuilder was waiting for me crunching his fists together like
he was turning bowling balls into marbles. Jesus but this guy’s shoulders could
have held a love seat Absolutely V-shaped, he had what looked like a 12 inch
waist. But more importantly to my current condition, whatever smile he had was
lost when his mommy took away his pacifier and he’d spent his next thirty years
perfecting the demeanor of a brick.
I explained that I’d just come from a war zone I explained
that it was an absolute accident. I also explained that I was astonishingly
sorry and it would never happen again. He stared at me like he’d rather see me
dead, bade me sit, then ignored me for an hour.
Realizing I was under surveillance, I tried to wonder how to
sit and compose myself. I fear I looked like a jonesing crack addict, because I
think I was changing my posture all too often.
Then I was offered tea.
Then later, water.
A friend of mine came over and asked if he should call the U.S
Ambassador. Shit was getting serious. He had them on speed dial. Did I really
want to escalate this? What would go from a good story of a shit time later on
my blog would turn into a front page spread of a US military member doing
something stupid in a foreign country… not like we need that again. So I
strategically demurred. Still, he sat with me for awhile. Then a new security
man came and said everything was going to be alright. I breathed a sigh of
relief because for a moment I thought everything would be okay.
Then a man came to whom everyone deferred. He looked sharp.
They’d called in the big guns. He waggled a finger towards me and led me to the
interrogation room.
----INTERMISSION----
HAHAHAHAHA!
----END OF THIRD INTERMISSION----
Some of you might know about my experience in this. I could
tell the guy was nervous. He was unskilled. He really wasn’t sure what
questions to ask. This was really the only part of the situation I felt in
complete control. But I had to be careful. If I appeared to be too smug, they
might think I’m an authentically bad guy. So I pretended extreme nervousness. I
fidgeted. I worried my hands together. I stuttered a little and apologized
profusely. But really, all I gave them was my story, my name, and someone
else’s phone number. By the time we left the poor man was satisfied and left
beaming.
Mission accomplished.
They’d interrogated the bad guy American and were happy for
it. They chuckled in their glass-fronted office. They’d bagged their bad guy
and mad him squirm. All but the body builder. He didn’t smile. Instead, he listened
to the information and took it in like a slab of marble would water.
They gave me more tea.
Now I have to admit, about this point I was thinking about
what would have happened if an Arab-speaking person arrived in Newark with a
bullet in his baggage. No joke, I bet they’d be halfway to GTMO before they
were able to get their story out. Certainly no tea. All joking and de-stressing
aside, I was absolutely appreciating their behavior and professionalism… even if
they were all wearing man dresses.
Then came the man they were waiting for. He wore the uniform
of a policeman. He said come with me and bring your bags. We went outside into
the hot Dubai air. I was thinking about that phone call to the ambassador about
now. We went down to another terminal, then back inside, then to an elevator.
We stood there and he didn’t say a word. I thought of asking him what was
coming up next for me, but I was too afraid of the answer. We took the elevator
to upstairs, around several turns, and I found myself in front of a sign that
read Airport Police HQ where I saw real interrogation rooms and real
bad-looking men who looked like they pulled out blond-haired, blue-eyed American
fingernails as an afternoon pre-prayer time activity. Having been in a police
station once or twice (ahem) in the
past, I immediately recognized their cold indifference, their professional
disdain, and their barely concealed contempt. The Constitution might say that
you are innocent until guilty, but I’ve found that most hard-working men of law
find it safer to feel the other way. That way they aren’t so often
disappointed. The Dubai Airport Police were no different.
At this point the tea stopped. So did the water. Everyone
who looked at me was probably remembering someone they knew who’d been stomped
on by the patriotic boots of America. I stopped fidgeting. I put on a
hopeful/wistful look, one I’d used throughout my childhood when my mother had
me wait for her, or when seventeen principals did the same. It was a
combination of a What me worry-you must have the wrong man-I’m far too
innocent to be guilty look that had got me out of more self-generated shit
than I deserved. When they did look at me, their laughter stopped, their smiles
fell, and they got real serious… like calling the Ambassador serious.
Nervous - from Midnight Express |
But there was one thing that did draw their attention. They
couldn’t help but ask about my tattoo. Is
that Bruce Lee? Just as the men downstairs had done (sans Marble Head), each
and every one of them, upon seeing my tattoos, asked me if that was Bruce Lee.
I responded sagely, smiled, and complimented them on their recognition. We were
starting to bond. We talked about different martial arts, using pidgin English
and mock moves. I was doing my best to go from being a suspect to one of them. Soon,
I was no longer that stupid American who brought the bullet back from the war,
but had been transformed into that stupid American with the cool tattoo of
Bruce Lee and that whatever his name is Pakistani singer who brought the bullet
back from the war.
By now, three and a half hours had passed.
Our tattoo-based friendship notwithstanding, I was beginning
to wonder if I was getting out of there.
They left to pray.
They came back for tea.
They talked about me and laughed, probably the same way a
roomful of American policemen would about an Arab-speaker stupid enough to put
himself in this situation.
Then the commander arrived. They all snapped to. Joking
ceased. Salutes snapped. They explained to him the situation. He rattled off a
few commands, then turned to leave. As he passed me, he gave me the look – Stupid American Trying To Bring A Bullet
Into My Airport What Were You Thinking.
I lowered my eyes to acknowledge my mistake. I felt a
sinking feeling.
He said something else. Then left.
I was called up. They filled out another form. I was asked
to sign it stating that I would never accidentally bring a bullet into Dubai
again—at least I hope that’s what it said because I signed it.
Then they handed me back my passport.
I was released.
Just under four hours.
I wonder how much different this could have turned out.
I wonder if I had been a foreigner in America if I would
have gotten off so easily-- with an apology accepted with a handshake and a don’t do this again.
Now as I type the rest of this it’s 3:36 AM and I’m
somewhere over Nova Scotia, obviously I realize that this could have gone very
badly. We’ve all seen the movies. We’ve all heard the horror stories.
You know, I’ve joked about the police and security at Dubai
International, but I do appreciate being set free with barely a slap on the
hand. They were doing their job and I
did something stupid. How that round got in there is another question. After
all, I hadn’t fired one of those rounds since April back in Virginia at The
Crucible.
But it happened.
I say this to all of you coming back from the war. Check
your gear. Even if you never used something, even if you’re sure something
couldn’t be there, check it. Had someone given me this advice, the events that
I recounted on this blog never would have happened.
But then again, neither would this blog entry.
In the end I thank Mike Towles and Bruce Lee. Mike is my
tattoo artist. He’s the one who put Bruce on my arm. It’s become a crazy and
unexpected business card. Just as the tattoo of Elvis he put there has become.
Only in this case, no one cared about the image of the mysterious Pakistani
singer. All they cared about was the King of King Fu, who was as much martial
art royalty in the Land of Islam as he was in Hollywood.
Weston Ochse has spent 29 years in the military in one shape or fashion. He's a world traveler and an internationally best-selling author of high action fiction. Please Note: This article is copyrighted by Weston Ochse. Any reproduction in whole or in part without the author’s permission is prosecutable by public law. If you'd like to borrow part of this or see it reprinted, contact me here. I'll probably say yes. I'm that kind of guy. You can link to this article. Thank you. © 2013
That is really scary, Wes! And I think you're right, it would have be worse the other way around. Maybe they're more used to military situations in the Dubai airport.
ReplyDeleteSince I'll be spending aug 2014-aug 2015 at the Embassy in Kabul, I've been browning through your posts, seeing what you have to say. Thanks for writing.
Amy, what are you doing there? I can tell you a lot actually. I was on ISAF which is right next to AMEMB.
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ReplyDeleteAll I could think of while reading this was Sam Kinison talking about how he got stopped in a U.S. airport after his girlfriend had packed his suitcase (not long after Kinison admitted cheating on her). You got a very good story out of what could have been a really rough decade. Good thing Bruce was with you.
ReplyDeleteRob, no kidding. I was very fortunate.
DeleteWhoa what a story!! I am so glad you escaped to come back and continue your fabulous writing career. See you on Face Book.... Catherine Bader
ReplyDeleteThank you Catherine!
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